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Hiking Boot
To get the footgear that’s right for you, you need to get “boot smart” first. It’s a good thing then that you stumbled upon this article.
First of all, we know that not everyone can afford a pair of super-ace Mountain Goat expedition boots. However, a pair of decent hiking boots can give you the kind of on or off-trail confidence in situations where traction is vital, safety in inclement weather, and probably more security with a heavy pack.
What’s more, if care for properly, good hiking boots will last a long time. In fact, depending only on how hard you and the terrain are one them, hiking boots could last anywhere from five to ten years.
The first part of getting boot smart is knowing the anatomy of a hiking boot. If you want to know what to look for during the buying process, then read on:
Full Grain
Your hiking boot is mostly made of cow’s hide and the full grain is the outermost part of the hide. Why outermost? Because it is the stiffest, most waterproof type of leather and if you’ve done hiking, you know how foot blisters due to water seeping in can be very painful.
Sometimes, the full grain is turned inside-out, or rough-out, so the smooth, outer layer won’t get nicked or scratched.
Upper Part
There is no actual name for this part of your hiking boot, so everybody just calls it “upper part.” One thing you ought to remember is that there should be as few seams as possible on the upper part of the hiking boot. In addition, get that pair of boots with a one-piece upper, as this is more water resistant.
Gusset
Notice that think piece of flexible leather sewn to both the tongue and the upper part of your boot? That is called the gusset. Its purpose is to keep water and stones out. There are hiking boots that have a “bellows” tongue, with wider gussets in order to allow the boot to open further, making it easy for you to put on. But there are also boots that have two “overlapping” tongues, each connected to one side.
Back-Stay
This is a strip of leather sewn over the back seam of your hiking boot. Be careful not to get this torn or chafed, as this part is nearly impossible to replace, and you may end up having to buy a new one. Here’s a buying tip: get those boots with narrow back-stays to reduce the chances of chafing.
Welt
A typical hiking boot usually has a stitch that connects the upper sole. This is called the welt, though there are many kinds. A Norwegian welt, for instance, is double-stitched, therefore, it’s stronger and stiffer. Other welts (Good-year, McKay, etc.) are not as strong but allow more flexibility.
Rand
This is a wide strip made of rubber. Its function is to protect the stitching that holds the upper to the sole. When buying a pair of hiking boots, be sure to check if the rand is sturdy, the stitching around it strong.
Sole
The sole of your hiking boot has three parts. Just below your foot is the padded “footbed.” When buying boots, be sure to check if the foot bed is solid by pressing the pad of your thumb. If you feel a depression after adding pressure, then it’s likely the footbed is not solid enough to withstand rugged terrain.
Other parts of the sole are the insole, just below the footbed, and an outsole on the bottom.
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